Pennine Way 2024 - Day 10: Tan Hill - Middleton in Teesdale

Pennine Way 2024 - Day 10:  Tan Hill - Middleton in Teesdale

Distance:  19.9 miles   Total:  163.52  (Tracklog: 17.28)   Steps: 40,162

Things seen: Hannah Hauxwell's farm, and some new friends!

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Yet another long day, but with a rest day to come I was in good spirits as I left Tan Hill after an indifferent breakfast. Our first job is to cross Sleighththolme Moor, a flattish but notoriously boggy moor, pass under the busy A66 near Bowes, and then tackle Bowes Moor. Many are not keen on Sleighththolme but I love it, it is wild and as mysterious as its proximity to the A66 will allow..

Before crossing the A66 I stopped as I always do at God's Bridge, a natural limestone slab that the River Greta (!) Passes underneath. There I was joined by four other walkers from Tan Hill. I left before them but we criss-crossed from then on and eventually walked into Middleton together. 

Bowes Moor is wide and boggy. After it I dropped down to Clove Lodge, which marks the halfway point of the PW. I stayed there overnight in 2009. They don't do accommodation now, but the lady that now lives there has set up some refreshments in her barn which were very welcome, see photos. 

After that the next dale is Baldersdale, where Hannah Hauxwell's farm, Low Birk Hatt is. I always stop there a moment. Her story is very moving, do look her up if you are not familiar with it. 

Then over to the next dale, Lunedale, and finally down to Middleton and the welcoming Teesdale Hotel.

on Bowes Moor

Coming off Bowes Moor. Clove Lodge at right, and a pony and trap with a most beautiful white horse, passing in front

The barn at Clove Lodge, with the lady owner and my new walking friends. 

Low Birk Hatt, where Hannah lived. 

Hope you can read all that. The meadows are indeed wonderful:

Dinner at the Teesdale: Saj, Alex, moi, Sula and Trevor. 

Pennine Way 2024 - Day 9: Hawes - Tan Hill

Pennine Way 2024 - Day 9:  Hawes - Tan Hill

Distance:  20.4  Total:  143.62    (Tracklog: 17.75)   Steps: 41,128

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I knew today would be a long day, 18+ miles and a climb of Great Shunner Fell, at 716m (2349ft) the third highest peak in the Yorkshire Dales. But I felt good as I set off from Hawes about 8.30am. There is a flat bit across to Hardraw and then a steady climb of perhaps three miles or more, to the top. Well I would not say I flew up it exactly, but I was very pleased at being able to keep up a steady pace over the 500m ascent to reach the summit before 11am. The descent to Thwaite took nearly as long, trying to protect my poor knees, though they still felt it. The pub/tearoom was closed, so I walked another mile to Muker, where the pub was also closed but the tearoom next door was open and I had the biggest sausage sandwich ever, the bread must have been an inch thick. 

Then on up the river (Ure) valley - saw two oystercatchers - to rejoin the official PW route to Keld and Tan Hill. It started to rain as I approached Keld, and the subsequent long crossing of boggy Stonesdale Moor was not much fun. So Tan Hill Inn was a welcome sight...

I had planned to put up the tent nearby, but in view of the weather I thought I would ask if they had a room available. They did have,  but nevertheless seemed surprised "most people book in advance" and suggested I have a look on Booking.com! Then they said they couldn't give me the room, I had to book it myself, online! Unbelievable. I won't go into all the gory details but eventually they did book out the room on their system  showing they could have done that themselves in the first place. Not what you want after a long day's walk. 

It is all very sad. This used to be the most welcoming place imaginable, homely and friendly. Now it has gone all corporate, as if it belongs to a hedge fund or something, and we have lost something of rare value. I won't be going back. I put a review on Tripadvisor

The bed was comfortable, though, even if the refurbished bedroom was achingly chic and out of place. 

There are fine views from Great Shunner Fell. They say you can see the Lake District, on a clear day, which this sadly wasn't. 

The river Ure below Keld, chief river of Wensleydale.

Tan hill Inn just coming into view in the distance..

Pennine Way 2024 - Day 8: Horton in Ribblesdale - Hawes

Pennine Way 2024 - Day 8: Horton in Ribblesdale - Hawes

Distance:  18.1 miles    Total:    123.22     (Tracklog: 14.78)    Steps: 36,601

Things seen: A dead sheep, rather sad. Lots more curlews and lapwings. A fine pint of Staropramen on arrival in Hawes 

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The campsite in Horton was basic but quite adequate, a nice spot and a bargain at £7. It rained all night, but it stopped about 5am and the tent dried out nicely in the morning sun (sun!). I was able to set off quite early, shortly before 8am. There is a stiff climb up and along to Cam End, and then a long and very scenic walk along the ancient Cam High Road and West Cam Road before descending to Gayle, and Hawes. It is one of my favourite parts of the PW .. last time along it, I saw two beautiful red squirrels sitting on the track, a mile from the nearest tree. 

No such luck this time, and I had a mishap. I stopped for a minute or two by an ancient farmhouse called Old Ing, surely one of the most inaccessible dwellings in Yorksire. Just as I was getting ready to go, a little car came bouncing down the track. Being a gentleman, I opened the gate to let it through, closed it again, and set off down the track after it. I had walked almost two miles before it dawned on me that I no longer had my phone! Eek! So I set off back again at top speed. Of course it was still there, sitting on the wall where I had left it. I did see two other walkers who said yes they had seen it, but left it where it was, not knowing which way the owner might have gone. So all well again, except I have added almost 4 miles (on the stepcounter but not the tracklog!) to what should have been an easier day.. 

I was fed up for a while - when you are walking, small things do seem to affect you more, your emotions go further down than they should, and further up too ... but when I got to Hawes it was still only 4.30pm, and I felt better sitting outside the pub chatting to other walkers and drinking the abovementioned pint of Star pilsner.

Then to check into the Hawes YHA, now an independent hostel and a very fine one, best so far. They had a school party of youngsters, very very noisy but lovely.. their teacher was one of the old school, very pleasant but if she told them to be quiet they instantly obeyed. Very impressed by her casual air of complete authority. 

This was my first day with no rain whatsoever, (after 5am at least). Hope for more of them!

Lots of fine views along the Cam High Road..

you can see why I was surprised to see a car out here!

Not THE sycamore, but a fine tree nonetheless. 

this lovely pony stood on the path into Hawes and did not move a muscle as I stroked it, rubbed its muzzle and sidled past it. look at those gorgeous feet!