Pennine Way 2024 - Day 15: Alston - Greenhead
Distance: 17.1 miles Total: 222.02 (Tracklog: 16.01) Steps: 34,501
Things seen: a huge hare; birds including more lovely curlews.
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This was a better day than most (I am reserving the term "A good day" for now!), because I did cheat a little. I discovered that there is a footpath called the South Tyne Way that goes all the way from Alston to Haltwhistle, along what was once the railway track. I had booked a bed at the Greenhead hostel, or I would have followed it all the way, but I walked along it as far as Lambley, before rejoining the PW, having saved a little distance and several hills. It was a pleasant diversion, enlivened by a huge hare that sat and looked at me until I was only a few metres away, before lolloping off. It was fine to start with but it did rain after a while, of course it did. There was some sun too, though.
The remaining route to Greenhead was (very) rural fields and countryside to start with, but then came Blenkinsopp moor, possibly Britain's boggiest place. There are different types of bog. There are the little ones you can step or jump over. There are bigger ones where a bit of a detour is needed. Then there are the ones where you seem to be completely surrounded by swamp and have no clue how to escape without wading. Blenkinsopp(ing) moor has several of these.
Eventually I found my way to Greenhead Hotel, around 5pm. The hostel is opposite, and run by, the hotel; it is in a converted "primitive methodist chapel." Only religion can make being primitive into a boast. I found the hostel a little bit spooky, but the hotel food was excellent.
[An aside: in Maidstone there is a "Strict and particular" baptist chapel. You can just imagine them saying "This will bring the punters rolling in" as they chiselled it over their entrance.]
River South Tyne
Sunnies on for the first time since setting off.
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