Pennine Way 2024 - Day 9: Hawes - Tan Hill

Pennine Way 2024 - Day 9:  Hawes - Tan Hill

Distance:  20.4  Total:  143.62    (Tracklog: 17.75)   Steps: 41,128

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I knew today would be a long day, 18+ miles and a climb of Great Shunner Fell, at 716m (2349ft) the third highest peak in the Yorkshire Dales. But I felt good as I set off from Hawes about 8.30am. There is a flat bit across to Hardraw and then a steady climb of perhaps three miles or more, to the top. Well I would not say I flew up it exactly, but I was very pleased at being able to keep up a steady pace over the 500m ascent to reach the summit before 11am. The descent to Thwaite took nearly as long, trying to protect my poor knees, though they still felt it. The pub/tearoom was closed, so I walked another mile to Muker, where the pub was also closed but the tearoom next door was open and I had the biggest sausage sandwich ever, the bread must have been an inch thick. 

Then on up the river (Ure) valley - saw two oystercatchers - to rejoin the official PW route to Keld and Tan Hill. It started to rain as I approached Keld, and the subsequent long crossing of boggy Stonesdale Moor was not much fun. So Tan Hill Inn was a welcome sight...

I had planned to put up the tent nearby, but in view of the weather I thought I would ask if they had a room available. They did have,  but nevertheless seemed surprised "most people book in advance" and suggested I have a look on Booking.com! Then they said they couldn't give me the room, I had to book it myself, online! Unbelievable. I won't go into all the gory details but eventually they did book out the room on their system  showing they could have done that themselves in the first place. Not what you want after a long day's walk. 

It is all very sad. This used to be the most welcoming place imaginable, homely and friendly. Now it has gone all corporate, as if it belongs to a hedge fund or something, and we have lost something of rare value. I won't be going back. I put a review on Tripadvisor

The bed was comfortable, though, even if the refurbished bedroom was achingly chic and out of place. 

There are fine views from Great Shunner Fell. They say you can see the Lake District, on a clear day, which this sadly wasn't. 

The river Ure below Keld, chief river of Wensleydale.

Tan hill Inn just coming into view in the distance..