Pennine Way 2024 - Day 10: Tan Hill - Middleton in Teesdale
Distance: 19.9 miles Total: 163.52 (Tracklog: 17.28) Steps: 40,162
Things seen: Hannah Hauxwell's farm, and some new friends!
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Yet another long day, but with a rest day to come I was in good spirits as I left Tan Hill after an indifferent breakfast. Our first job is to cross Sleighththolme Moor, a flattish but notoriously boggy moor, pass under the busy A66 near Bowes, and then tackle Bowes Moor. Many are not keen on Sleighththolme but I love it, it is wild and as mysterious as its proximity to the A66 will allow..
Before crossing the A66 I stopped as I always do at God's Bridge, a natural limestone slab that the River Greta (!) Passes underneath. There I was joined by four other walkers from Tan Hill. I left before them but we criss-crossed from then on and eventually walked into Middleton together.
Bowes Moor is wide and boggy. After it I dropped down to Clove Lodge, which marks the halfway point of the PW. I stayed there overnight in 2009. They don't do accommodation now, but the lady that now lives there has set up some refreshments in her barn which were very welcome, see photos.
After that the next dale is Baldersdale, where Hannah Hauxwell's farm, Low Birk Hatt is. I always stop there a moment. Her story is very moving, do look her up if you are not familiar with it.
Then over to the next dale, Lunedale, and finally down to Middleton and the welcoming Teesdale Hotel.
I met Hannah on my PW. She was heaving bails of straw about in the barn. I asked if I could fill up my water bottle. She rushed off and came back with my refilled bottle and also a stool for me to sit on - it was a hot sweaty day. This was before she became famous - I just perceived a kind energetic elderly lady battling on to run her farm. Much later with the story unfolding I realised who I had met.
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