Sunday, 29 September 2019

Pennine Way day 18: Crowden - Edale

Friday, 27 September 2019

Miles:  21.3 (including 2 miles from Edale to the Youth hostel)
Total miles: 280.2

There was some rain in the night, but I was snug in my camping pod...
I set off about 8am and began the long climb up to Bleaklow Head. It started to rain again, and with a few brief interludes, it rained the whole day long.
After Bleaklow, a long descent to cross the A57 road, then the seemingly endless trek over Ashop moor and Featherbed Moss. I remembered and was prepared for this, and plugged in and listened to my audiobooks.. the whole way is paved nowadays, which makes a huge difference. The moor either side is awash, and would surely be practically impassable in these conditions, if the flagstones were not there.
Finally, Kinder Scout comes into view, and up we go, and along via Kinder Downfall and Kinder Low to Jacob's Ladder. A nightmare journey this, frankly, with a howling wind that makes walking difficult, and makes the rain actually painful when it hits your face. I love the Kinder plateau, but not in that mood. At last down Jacob's Ladder, with some relief, and finally, along to Edale and the Nag's Head

I did not have a lot of time to spare, as I still had to go the extra two miles to the hostel, and it is getting dark quite early now. But I did have time for something to eat, a celebratory lager, and most important, getting the staff at the Nag's Head to sign the certificate they gave me before I started.. it has been on the journey with me, but was still in good condition. Nice, to have documentary proof..
So, that is it, a third Pennine Way completed, and this was the hardest, I think. I will do one more post, after I get home, and sort out a gallery of photos.. I have over 500, though with many duplicates.

Thank you for listening! (but do read the final post)

A camping pod .. mine was the same, but without the fancy furniture or picnic table

Tiny ponies above Torside reservoir .. very friendly

Looking back at Crowden and Torside reservoir

Bleaklow Head .. 633m but no trig. point ..

Featherbed Moss, with the Kinder Plateau in the distance and a little of the paving slabs at right

Final destination achieved .. never was any good at selfies!

I earned this :-)



4 comments:

  1. Fantastic! I've really enjoyed following your progress and loved the pictures. Well done Jerry, I'm in awe!

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  2. Hello Jerry,
    I too have very much enjoyed your journey sobo on the Pennine Way, but from afar in Canada. As a big fan of James Herriot, I visited Hawes and the surrounding Yorkshire Dales area by car in 1990 on a 1/2 day trip. The scenery was just beautiful, and I have dreamed of returning to hike there one day. Just wondering based on your experience what you would recommend as to preferred direction of travel, best time of year to hike, and any insect pests to worry about? It seemed like this trip worked out very well in these areas, and you did not seem to have any issues with overcrowding or lodging, except maybe the night you spent at the Tan Hill Inn.
    I look forward to your next adventure!
    John Wilson

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    1. Hello John
      Alf Wight/James Herriot was the vet my parents used, when they lived in Bedale.. I have a couple of their books he autographed for them
      Insects are not really a big deal thereabouts .. I didn't take any insect deterrent and I didn't get bitten.
      Re direction of travel (and accommodation), see my later post ..
      Time of year, each to their own but May & June look good to me and if I do it again, late May/early June are looking favourite. This time of year, 12hrs of darkness were beginning to be a nuisance.. who needs 12 hours in a tent?!
      There are several other good walks around the Dales, such as "A Pennine Journey" and "Dales Way," if the Dales are a particular favourite. Good luck, and just do it! Don't wait

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    2. I was one of the leaders in a Canada/Scotland-England Boy Scout exchange trip in, and requested of my English host in Horsforth (near Leeds) that we visit the Dales during a day of home hospitality while in the area. I met Alf at his surgery in Thirsk, and he signed one of his books that I hurriedly bought from a local shop, (James Herriot's Yorkshire - a beautiful book, but now I've got two :-) as the visit was unplanned beforehand.
      Thank you so much for your reply and suggestions; I had identified the Dales Way previously as a hike that would interest me, but had not heard about the Pennine Journey. Loop trips always make logistics easier, and I can't imagine one that has so much scenery, history, and points of interest as this one...
      Thank You Jerry!

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